New York Fashion Week RoundUp
BY : JACK SUNNUCKS
New York Fashion Week RoundUp
An orgy of excess on the runways...
It wasn’t until the last few days of fashion week that New York really started to hot up this season – both on the runways and off it, as snow gave way to brilliant sunshine. After a week of supposed modernity, we saw a trio of great, extravagant shows at Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Coach. On the other end of the spectrum, Eckhaus Latta and Vaquera dealt in intimacy and feeling. Truly, something for everyone, which after all, should be what fashion is about. Here were our highlights.
Marc’s women this season were a moving tribute to the outsize ‘80s shapes of Yves Saint Laurent, with huge coats topped off with hoods and wide brimmed black hats. The effect was as if the models had stepped out of an Antonio Lopez illustration, made somber by the runway’s dramatic lighting and the designer’s use of maroon, purple and deep blue. Marc had created the collection out of some of the most exquisite yet stiff couture fabrics – taffeta, radzimir and silk moire, so when the models moved past you, they were almost like ships under sail, their huge volumes leaving a slipstream of fabulousness.
In the rain we flocked to Bushwick to see the latest offering by Eckhaus Latta, the bicoastal designers who play with both tailoring and mood to great effect. To the sounds of Yeaji singing Drake’s Passionfruit, they sent out a collection mixing undulating knitwear with boxy pants, newly glamorous gowns, and jackets with extravagant collars. It was a willful collision of old and new, best encapsulated by a curvy striped corset paired with tie dye jeans. With their forever interesting explorations, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta seem to never run out of fresh ways to inspire and confound.
For his most accomplished show at Calvin Klein to date, Raf Simons flooded the American Stock Exchange with ankle deep popcorn, and sent out an array of looks seemingly meant to protect one from everything. Nuclear winter, mental trauma, bad fashion – Simons’ balaclavas, bulky jackets and huge boots sought to swaddle their wearers against the elements, whilst silver heat blanket fabric and orange reflective strips said “Stay Away!” Fans of the designer, however, will find it hard to stay away from his transparent prairie dresses in plaid. The show took its inspiration from the 1995 Todd Haynes film Safe, in which Julianne Moore thinks she’s allergic to absolutely everything, or perhaps she’s just mad. It’s a must see.
The four young designers tackled faith, or lack of it, in a collection that showed off then breadth of their design language as well as their skill with a theme. From a jacket woven with the skyline of New York, to a red devil outfit, to huge flouncy choirboy dresses, it was a pondering on personal style and its transformative effect. For many, it called to mind ‘80s Gaultier, both in its exuberance and the cropped, curved shapes the designers put out. The finale was definitely the best of the week too – confetti cannons unleashing to the sound of Peaches’ Fuck The Pain Away.
Stuart Vevers always puts on a monster show, and this was no different, with sixty looks. Somehow, however, this was also the most intimate, as models weaved their way through a barren forest filled with dead leaves and flickering TV’s. Vevers invested his men and women with a quiet dignity, mixing a gothic sensibility with his usual love of the prairie and Americana. Think peasant dresses with velvet and lace embellishments, fringed leather jackets, cowboy shirts, and stompy boots. Somehow, the gothic undertone united the disparate elements into one, glorious, unapolagetically dark whole.