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Fashion Musical Chairs, Who Will Take the Seat?

Style
Feb 9, 2018

Fashion Musical Chairs, Who Will Take the Seat?

BY : JACK SUNNUCKS

Fashion Musical Chairs

What designers moving houses means for the industry...

By now, even those who dwell under rocks have learned that Hedi Slimane, formerly of Saint Laurent, will be moving to Céline. This is a total volte face from the previous decade of the brand under Phoebe Philo, where the notoriously reclusive designer cultivated her own idiosyncratic tastes, and in the process defined the look for a generation of thinking, feeling women. Slimane however is less concerned with the interior lives of women, and more into rock chicks – of which we also approve, it’s just different, sort of like when your Mom remarries and suddenly you have to try and like a guy called Gerard.

As the saying goes however, it never rains, it pours all over your Céline coat, and thus there have been a series of reshuffles at the top of various fashion houses. Here, a run down of the names to drop at either a chic drinks event or your fashion obsessed cousin Laura’s Bat Mitzvah.

 

KIM JONES

Jones recently left Louis Vuitton after a decade as Creative Director of their men’s line, during which time he was widely credited with bringing streetwear to high fashion. He’s best friends with Virgil Abloh and Kate Moss, he has a Maybach, it was his idea to do the Vuitton x Supreme collection.

Where might he end up? All signs point towards Burberry – the British brand is currently without a head creative after the departure of long-term designer Christopher Bailey. It’s based in London, where Jones has a home, and would give him scope to design both men’s and women’s – truly an exciting and modern prospect.

A pioneer amongst collabs between high fashion & streetwear labels
Supreme x Louis Vuitton

PHOEBE PHILO

Philo’s influence over fashion is immeasurable; during both her time at Chloe and Céline she held great sway over how women wanted to dress, from their gathered leather shoes to their either tiny or oversized handbags. Céline’s Juergen Teller lensed campaigns became the gold standard in chic, while any photo of the designer herself was pored over for clues to the next big thing (Asics sneakers got a boost from their appearance on her feet). Between the two houses, Philo took three years off to concentrate on her family, and well, having a life (oh, that). All signs point towards that being what she’ll do next – retire for a Greta Garbo like existence. Either that or Chanel. Duh.

Celine Resort 2015
Philo's signature turtle neck look
Toe-tally love it - Celine SS17

RICCARDO TISCI

Pretty Ricky has been awol since leaving Givenchy, authoring a handful of Nike collaborations but not much else, and leaving his #givenchygang devoid of goth-y, glamorous things to wear. If he ever finishes his seemingly endless vacation in Brazil, we suspect he might head to the House of Versace. He’s already put Donatella in one of his campaigns at Givenchy, and as a fellow Italian feels great kinship for the themes of religion, sexuality and straight out DRAMA! Honestly, seems like it would be a great fit.

Donatella Versace for Givenchy
Givenchy FW17 dripping red
Ricardo in his Nike collab

OTHER NAMES OF NOTE

Alber Elbaz hasn’t been much heard from since he was rudely ejected from Lanvin (which has been on a downward spiral ever since.)

Similarly Peter Copping hasn’t done anything since leaving Oscar de la Renta, and the runway misses his lovely, elegant designs, which turned around Nina Ricci.

And while he’s not exactly awol, wouldn’t it be nice to see Marc Jacobs at the helm of a major house again? The man knows the ins and outs of bags intimately, and can do a dramatic show like nobody else. We can hope.

Alber Elbaz in NYC
Lanvin SS16
Marc Jacobs for Nars
Peter Copping's last line for Oscar de la Renta